Skyfall, my first Jamaican movie



Last night marked my first time watching a movie in the theatre here in Jamaica. It was a fun experience. The movie itself, Skyfall, was entertaining and kept me interested through the entire two plus hours. I had heard about the Jamaican movie experience- it is a little bit different as the national anthem is played prior to the movie and there is an intermission. So of course, I missed the anthem as I was out buying water. But I was there for the intermission, which was strange, in a good way. The crowd was into the movie, there was some commenting and opining, although a lot less than I expected given what it is usually like at live events. As far as the movie itself goes, it is what you would expect of a James Bond film. Daniel Craig is fine, in fact, everyone does a great job. The scenery and explosions are impressive, too.

This morning, I was up early for a walk to raise funds and awareness for diabetes. Hosted by fellow volunteer Wendy’s workplace, the National Volunteer Centre/ Council for Voluntary Social Services, the walk consisted of 10 laps around Emancipation Park, free diabetes screenings and a draw for prizes. There was a small turnout, but people seemed to enjoy themselves.
And of course, Wendy won the prize least suitable for her- a gift basket of hair products for Jamaican hair. It worked out well, however, as she gave it to her friend Annemarie, who celebrates her birthday tomorrow.

It was serendipitous event for me as well. I was asked by a couple to take their picture. It turns out the man is a Professor of Philosophy at the University of West Indies. He loves Hannah Arendt’s book The Human Condition, which is one of my favourite pieces of literature of all time. I also wrote my Master’s thesis on Arendt’s work. It is hard to find people who have heard of Arendt, let alone those who enjoy her. She is a controversial figure for several reasons.
In any case, it has already been an eventful day and I am headed out later this afternoon for several more.

Banana and Tea


Banana from JA, tea from Ethiopia, courtesy of Erin. Thanks!

LIME, photo ops, Santa and free phones!


Today Youth Opportunities Unlimited had a photo op with LIME Jamaica (Landline, Internet, Mobile and Entertainment Services). LIME has recently provided YOU with some funding to aid us in our Christmas card fundraiser. They invited us to attend their tree-lighting ceremony at their headquarters.

We arrived at about 1:20 as we were told the ceremony started at 1:30. We were greeted by a LIME marketing person who told us we would be called in about 2:00. So we hung out in a gazebo and drank juice. There were about 20 YOU youth who have benefitted from our programs. They all wore their YOU t-shirts, tucked in, pulled up their belted pants and hid their flashy jewelry.

Around 2:00, we were rounded up for a photo op with Santa, five elves (young women in rather revealing dresses?!?) and the LIME CEO Gary Sinclair. The media love LIME events, so there were lots of cameras. We all gathered around the Christmas tree as Sinclair lit it up as carols played in the background. Then, one of the marketing people grabbed one of our youth by the wrist (a young girl in her school uniform) and shoved her by the tree for Sinclair to officially present her with a “gift”, which was a LIME backpack with a phone inside! It is obviously very generous of them. Sinclair is a YOU board member.

Then, the entire group of youths were herded under the tree for another photo op with Sinclair, Santa and the elves. I snapped lots of pictures as well. And then it was all over. We were treated to a catered meal of chicken, oxtail, fish, rice and peas and salad. Everybody was clearly pleased with their new phones. And that was it.

Would Petraeus affair have changed the outcome?


Today I will steer away from Jamrock and address what the rest of the world seems to be talking about: former CIA director General David Petraeus’ resignation after it was discovered that he had an affair with his biographer. It is making news in JA, but more with a sort of detached fascination. More broadly, it seems like a lot of the coverage consists of either a whole lot of people casting their own morals on the situation or simply expressing a voyeuristic penchant for gossip. Both natural reactions, of course.

Let’s start by stating that powerful people are not immune to affairs and scandals and rotten judgment. The premise that politicians or military generals or even CEOs are immune to such behaviour has never made sense to me. Although, it would not be so far-fetched to think that a disciplined and brilliant fellow such as Petraeus might be able to control himself. Alas, he could not.

But that’s not what this post is about. Instead, I’ve been wondering about the timing of all of this. If the news had broken prior to the Nov. 6 election date, would the outcome have been different? As soon as I heard the news. I immediately thought: whoever was able to keep this under wraps until after the election deserves a gigantic raise, and whoever is responsible for digging up dirt on the Obama administration must be kicking themselves.

Putting on my PR hat, if I were the Romney camp, I would have spun the story to capitalize on the potential threat to national security and to question the competence, integrity and trustworthiness of the administration itself. I have heard commentary that Obama and those in his inner circle are not implicated in any way, though.

I have no conclusions or certainties. Only the question as to whether or not we would have been waking up to another U.S. President on Nov. 7. Just an interesting, now purely academic question.

Fellow bloggers


There are about 15 of us volunteers here in Jamaica at any given time. We come and go, in fact, three of us will leave this weekend. Several of us blog, and today, I want to highlight five other fellow bloggers who have influenced the way in which I approach this business of documenting my life in JA.

Wendy Lee
Wendy is from Vancouver and has been faithful in writing about her experiences here in JA. Her matter-of-fact and delightful words are highlighted by her camera skills. She has a gorgeous, fancy camera, which she has recently complemented with a skills course put on by our mutual friend Kashta Graham (Kashta is an impressive entrepreneur in her own right, check out her Facebook page.) Unfortunately, Wendy is departing Jamaica next month. I will miss her blog, but I will miss her face way more.

Brianna Strumm

Brianna is from Calgary and arrived in Jamaica in July. She is my new running partner and we are training for the half-marathon next month in Negril. Brianna’s blog is honest and personal and thought-provoking and it has inspired me to delve more into the emotional aspect of living here.

Julia Magnuson-Ford

Julia lives up in Montego Bay. We do not get to see her much, but when we do, it is a pleasure and I love hearing about life up on the North coast.

Onyka Barrett

Onyka is from Trinidad and has been in Jamaica on-and-off for awhile now. I love her writing style, it has inspired me to break out of my fact-heavy, “objective”, journalistic style. She has prompted me to seek out different, more colourful words, to stretch the way I express things beyond my normal mandate of telling you what happened.

Erin MacLeod

Erin is a never-ending source of information on all things Jamaican. She is a scholar at the University of West Indies as well as a Cuso volunteer. She is also an awesome writer who inspires me to portray Jamaica with the affection she clearly has for this island nation.

For all these ladies and their blogs, I am grateful for their influence on the way I tell you what it is like to live here in Kingston, Jamaica. It is never a simple existence here, so it is never easy to pick an angle and determine the best way to express it. On another note, notice we are all women? What’s up with that? One reason is that volunteers in the development sector tend to be female (probably the subject of a doctoral thesis), and two, the men here, at least by my count, do not blog. I wonder why. In any case, check out these talented ladies and spread the word.

Honeymoon to homesick


My feet have not left Jamaican earth for nine months. Except when I am floating in the ocean, I guess. Does this count? This marks the longest stretch of time I have remained in one country for years, I think. Coming up to the nine month mark, I have been reflecting on this journey. The best characterization I can come up with, while cliched, is that the honeymoon with JA is over, but the relationship is growing into something stronger and better. I fell hard and fast for this place, for the very things that many people cannot cope with. The noise, the energy, the music, the food, the people. From the moment I landed in Kingston and exited the airport, I was taken: with the Blue Mountains presiding over the city like a protective grandfather, with the heat- and blossom-infused air, with the guttural, gleeful shouts and communications flowing amongst its people. Of the cities I have lived recently, I fell for this place like no other. Not like Washington, D.C., where I was infatuated with its stately architecture and the mysticism that surrounds the source of power of the most powerful nation in the world; not like Boston, where I was captivated by the history and sheer intellectual magic churning out of its hundreds of academic campuses, and certainly not my hometown of Ottawa, where I delight in the delicious freedom of doing yoga on Parliament Hill or the city’s physical beauty.

The best way I can describe my relationship with Kingston now is encapsulated in my journey to and from work. I do this trip 10 times a week, if I am at the office every day. Back in North America on my commute, I could tune out, whether it was on the T in Boston or in my car in suburban Ottawa. I could tune out because the same thing happened every day. I was Bill Murray in Groundhog Day. Here, despite leaving the house at the same time every day, almost to the minute, at least one variable shifts every day. Whether it is something different on a crazy coaster ride or schoolgirls saying hi to me or the crazy dude on the corner trying to grab me, it is never predictable.

This is what I love. This is also what I struggle with. It is exhausting. Mostly, the harassment. I am loathe to complain, because I was warned. But I must always have my guard up. Because nothing is ever predictable, I can never zone out. I must regard every potential interaction with wariness. But I suppose my obsession with novelty outweighs the negative aspects of this lifestyle. At the same time that living here drains me, it recharges me. I return to my initial statement: the honeymoon is over. We were told in pre-country training that this would happen, and indeed, it has. My view of JA is now of a different hue and focus, mostly due to some scary and troubling experiences. But I am entering reality, I suppose, and reality is always the best place to be. Here and now. That is the best time and place in the universe and that is all we have. So now that this honeymoon is over, the ignorance of flaws and failures has expired, I am beginning to see JA as it really is. I am assembling who I need to be to survive here, discarding the idealistic imagery and tumbling to the ground. And I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Okay, maybe I would change one thing. It would be to arrest the breathlessness that comes with being homesick. It would be to stop the pain and powerlessness that comes with being so far from loved ones. It is a universal feeling, and it comes on at inappropriate times, causing your breath to catch in your throat when you see a loved one’s face in your mind, or tears to escape when you wonder if you will ever see an elderly relative again. But the time for me to visit home is approaching. My arms are itching for a hug, my lungs for an uncontrolled laugh and my heart for the love that awaits me there.

The Kriativ Aktivis


Randy Mclaren performed at our graduation ceremony last week. He is a spoken word dub-poet performer who calls himself the Kriativ Aktivis. He is from a tiny village in St. Thomas. Here he talks about succeeding in the academic and work world. He captivated the audience. Even if you can’t understand it all, you can get the point. Enjoy.

A day away at Fort Clarence


Today we ventured out to Fort Clarence, which is just before Hellshire Beach. It is past a suburb of Kingston called Portmore. We caught the bus from the downtown area, actually we missed the one that would have taken us right to Fort Clarence, but we managed to catch another one. I did not mind the detour, as I had not yet been to Portmore. It is so different from Kingston out there. Flat, hot and dry. And what you might imagine a Caribbean suburb looks like. Lots of one-story, concrete, colourful homes with painted fences and grilles. Lots of people walking around, children playing, even the requisite malls and plazas, complete with KFC and Burger King.

We finally arrived at the beach, which is gorgeous. Turquoise water, soft sand, and not that crowded. We sat under the shade of sea grape trees, me reading a magazine and Brianna studying for her GRE exam, which is next week. We swam and napped. A trio of dogs hung out beside us, and a random fellow also sat right next to us, with not a word spoken. It was kind of weird, but he did not bother us at all, so it was okay. I got a picture of Champagne and his horse Kunta Kinte, who is nine years old. Champagne has been offering people horseback rides for 23 years. After a final swim, we departed for Kingston.

We caught a route taxi, which was a sedan intended to fit maybe eight people max. There were 12 of us, all squeezed in. But we made it safely an caught the bus back to Kingston. The bus route took us all through the suburbs again, adding an extra hour, but we made it back to Halfway Tree in time to walk home while it was still light.

Beach day!


We are going to Fort Clarence today. Pics to follow, as I have not yet been there. Here’s one for the time being.

The sunsets have been spectacular lately and I can’t stop taking pictures. I will miss them when I move to my new apartment in about a month- no view!

Must be nice…


Butch Stewart is a big name here in Jamaica. He owns the Sandals chain of resorts, a large automotive dealership and one of the two main newspapers, the Jamaica Observer. To me, it is unclear how he is perceived on the island. He is a white Jamaican and wealthy, of course. From what I have heard and observed, people are grateful for the jobs the resorts provide, but they are uneasy with where the money flows, i.e. back to Stewart. He has also come under fire for the sensational nature of the Observer’s coverage of horrific events like child rapes and murders. The Observer has also been accused of having a homophobic agenda. As a journalist, I agree that the Observer’s coverage is often sensational, gratuitous and can be homophobic. This, of course, is inexcusable, but I must admit the uncomfortable fact that at the same time, there is some good quality, first-hand reporting happening.

It has been interesting for me to observe how the reporters get the stories. There seems to be a lot more on-the-ground collection of information. I think this happens for two reasons: one is that information here in Jamaica, in general, is not adequately recorded and stored, so journalists must actually pick up the phone, visit a site or event, retrieve a document themselves or interview people much more frequently than North American journalists, who can Google everything and find all the documents and data they require online. Also, as a byproduct of this situation, the journalism profession is about five to ten years behind, in my estimation, when it comes to social media and the sharing of information. The second reason, which is speculation on my part, is that Jamaica has a history of transmitting information orally, as opposed to transmission via the written word. So reporters might naturally be more inclined to get out there and seek the story themselves, as opposed to working the phones at a desk all day. I find the Observer’s strength is this firsthand accounting of events.

Another speculation on my part is that it appears Stewart could be subsidizing the Observer’s costs; it is a thick newspaper with looong stories. This is a rarity in today’s news environment. Although print advertising seems to be strong here in Jamaica, so maybe the Observer isn’t a money loser for Stewart. In any case, I am now going to come back to the whole point of this venture into puzzling over Jamaica’s news environment: it must be nice to have your own newspaper so that you can have flattering features written about yourself. Check out this page 3 story on Butch Stewart. This would never fly in Canada or the U.S.